This weeks pics.

German Mantle Clock - before commencing work, and two barometers.

July 11 photos

Before. Countwheel strike Longcase Clock

Brians friend's friend's clock

The ironic thing I find of mass produced clocks is that you never see the same one twice. Of all the variations I see there are very few benefits or improvements in design. Like the quick release mainspring barrels. There are several ways of approaching the quick release after removing the click ratchet. The self regulating of the hour with its chime - the fourth quarter, has many approaches but none seem better, cheaper or easier to produce or work on than the other.

Reverse minute wheel & pinion

Reverse minute wheel & pinion, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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The Backcock

Two pieces of brass angle 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8"
A piece of brass strip 1/2" x 1/8" and a piece of 1/4" brass rod.
Silver soldered together and milled square.
The 1/4" square piece is riveted on by turning a spigot on the end. Cut a slit in the square rod on the milling machine.
When in position correctly clamp it down and spot through the two 2BA and two register pin holes.

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Homemade Depthing Gauge

Homemade Depthing Gauge, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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The mounted great wheels

The mounted great wheels, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Division plate and lathe mod for roller filing rest

Division plate and lathe mod for roller filing rest, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Brazing equipment

Brazing equipment, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Remember to leave a raised ring for low friction

Remember to leave a raised ring for low friction, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Pickling in 10% sulphuric acid

Pickling in 10% sulphuric acid, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Barrel Arbors

My barrel arbors are machined from 5/16" dia silver steel. Again I fabricate. Each about 5" long I turn down the small spigot 1/8" at 1/4" dia. Then the other end I turn down 1 1/2" to 1/4 dia.
Then I make some steel shoulders. (note: make them extra large so its not too fiddly to braze. They can always be turned smaller later)
A groove needs to be cut with the parting-off tool for the slip washer. It's all not too critical as the shoulder will soldered after the barrel, ratchet and endplate is mounted. Then I square off 7/8" in a 'roller filing rest' in the lathe, using a division plate giving me four quarters. (pics attached).

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Wheel, collet, arbor & pinion

Wheel, collet, arbor & pinion, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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pinions

photo.jpg, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Cutting the teeth.

I use a homemade 'wheel cutting engine' to cut my teeth. But the milling machine can be used to do this as well as the lathe can- with a milling head. If preparation and planning is all sorted then all the teeth of the wheels can be cut in an evening.
Make a mandrel: use 1/2" steel rod, turn down one end to the 3/16ths for your wheels. Then thread the end 2 B.A. with a washer and nut to hold the work tight.
Mount your mandrel in a horizontal holder on the machine table with the applicable division plate attached at it's other end.
Centre up your 0.8 module cutter by using a lathe centre point.

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The Wheels

Seven wheels are cut out of 1/16" Compo brass sheet with a bandsaw. Then turned down to exact measurements on the lathe. The Centre will have 60 teeth and is 1.975" Diameter. 3rd has 56 teeth at 1.849" Dia. Also the Pin wheel has 56 teeth at 1.849" Dia. The Scape has 30 teeth at 1.650" The Pallet has 49 teeth at 1.628", the Warn has 42 at 1.408" the Hour has 72 teeth at 2.353".
There are then two Minute wheels (one for going in reverse) made out of 3/32" material. They have 39 teeth at 1.313" Diameters.
The Centre, 3rd, Pin, Pallet and Warn are pierced out with a jewellers/piercing saw. to have four crossings/spokes each. You can saw and file this to taste bearing in mind the centre bore hole is 3/16", and the Pin wheel has extra 'meat' to house the pins for the Bell hammer tail.

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The Arbors

The Arbors, originally uploaded by Craig_star.

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Arbors

Next is the arbors. Seven. (not including Barrel arbors). The 'Going' gear train runs on three arbors. The Scape, the 3rd, and the Centre. One end of the Scape arbor protrudes through the front plate 7/8" for the seconds hand, and one end of the Centre arbor protrudes through 1 7/8" for the minute hand. A shoulder will need to be made to hold the centre arbor in place (also to carry a wheel) as it's full width passes through the front plate.
The striking gear train - Fly arbor, Warn arbor, Pallet arbot, and Pin arbor. The fly, warn and pin are made the same as the 3rd arbor of the going train. Make them loose fitting (endshake) by offering them up to the chassis for a feel. Turn the pivots to .060 .
The Pallet arbor protrudes through the front plate 7/16".

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the chassis

After a few evenings I have my chassis assembled tight.
I milled square, two pieces of engraving brass - 5" x 6 3/8".
I found the centre datum line and 'registered' the plates together using small taper pins.
The pillars are 3" long and have a spigot both ends.
One spigot gets faced off for a 4 B.A tapped hole, the other gets rounded off for 'quick release' taper pins. Each pillar is made for each hole respectively, I give a small, hidden mark to signify pillars l, ll, lll, and lV.
Spot through the plates with a centre bit then clamp it all down real tight to stop it grabbing as the pillar-drill pops through.
I've made rings to decorate the pillars.
I made the steel screws and brass washers.

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