Showing posts with label clock wheels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clock wheels. Show all posts
Monday, 11 February 2013
Sunday, 29 November 2009
Sunday, 15 November 2009
Saturday, 14 November 2009
Saturday, 31 October 2009
Barrel Arbors
My barrel arbors are machined from 5/16" dia silver steel. Again I fabricate. Each about 5" long I turn down the small spigot 1/8" at 1/4" dia. Then the other end I turn down 1 1/2" to 1/4 dia.
Then I make some steel shoulders. (note: make them extra large so its not too fiddly to braze. They can always be turned smaller later)
A groove needs to be cut with the parting-off tool for the slip washer. It's all not too critical as the shoulder will soldered after the barrel, ratchet and endplate is mounted. Then I square off 7/8" in a 'roller filing rest' in the lathe, using a division plate giving me four quarters. (pics attached).
Then I make some steel shoulders. (note: make them extra large so its not too fiddly to braze. They can always be turned smaller later)
A groove needs to be cut with the parting-off tool for the slip washer. It's all not too critical as the shoulder will soldered after the barrel, ratchet and endplate is mounted. Then I square off 7/8" in a 'roller filing rest' in the lathe, using a division plate giving me four quarters. (pics attached).
Thursday, 29 October 2009
pinions
Here I make pinion wire. All of my pinions are made out of 5/16" diameter stock on the milling machine. When I have cut all my leaves I can cut off a pinion one at a time at the required length, drill the hole and position on the arbor. A main advantage of fabricating instead of turning the whole arbor & pinion from solid is so that it is much easier to depth the pinions to the wheels using a simple homemade depthing tool. 3 pinions are to have 8 leaves and 4 have 7.
The 3rd and Centre pinions are 8 leaves and both are turned down to the 3/16" to hold their wheels respectively. The Scape, Fly, Warn, and Pallet are 7 leaves. And the Pin is 8 leaves. Pinions and pivots should be hardened and tempered to prevent wear.
The 3rd and Centre pinions are 8 leaves and both are turned down to the 3/16" to hold their wheels respectively. The Scape, Fly, Warn, and Pallet are 7 leaves. And the Pin is 8 leaves. Pinions and pivots should be hardened and tempered to prevent wear.
Saturday, 24 October 2009
collets
Five wheel collets are to be made to hold four wheels and the anchor. The other wheels are held by the pinions turned down to make shoulders. The center holes are 1/8" the spigot is 3/16 so we can use 3/8" rod for this procedure.
Friday, 23 October 2009
Cutting the teeth.
I use a homemade 'wheel cutting engine' to cut my teeth. But the milling machine can be used to do this as well as the lathe can- with a milling head. If preparation and planning is all sorted then all the teeth of the wheels can be cut in an evening.
Make a mandrel: use 1/2" steel rod, turn down one end to the 3/16ths for your wheels. Then thread the end 2 B.A. with a washer and nut to hold the work tight.
Mount your mandrel in a horizontal holder on the machine table with the applicable division plate attached at it's other end.
Centre up your 0.8 module cutter by using a lathe centre point.
Make a mandrel: use 1/2" steel rod, turn down one end to the 3/16ths for your wheels. Then thread the end 2 B.A. with a washer and nut to hold the work tight.
Mount your mandrel in a horizontal holder on the machine table with the applicable division plate attached at it's other end.
Centre up your 0.8 module cutter by using a lathe centre point.
Labels:
clock making,
clock wheels,
grandfather clock,
longcase clock
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